Skip to main content

Pinhole Camera's

Materials:

  • light sensitive photographic paper
  • pinhole camera 
  • developer, fixative, stop and wash (or Ilford print developing machine)


Processes:


The process of using the pinhole camera began by first taking a pinhole camera (made from a shoe box) into the darkroom so that when I collected the light-sensitive paper and placed it inside the pinhole camera emulsion side up, the paper was not exposed to any light because the light-sensitive photographic paper does not get exposed to the red light (safe light) within the darkroom. I then went outside with the pinhole camera and experimented, trying different things to see what worked best with the greatest outcomes from the final print. I made sure that the pinhole was completely sealed shut with the black material, making sure that no light was leaking in, overexposing the paper and in theory spoiling the print. I then brought the pinhole camera back into the darkroom and put it into the print developing machine and waited for the final print to develop.

Technical Skills:

Through the process above, I learned some technical skills, which first includes the exposure times. I learned that when using the pinhole camera in a darkened environment or capturing a dark subject matter, then the light-sensitive paper should be exposed to more light meaning that it needs a longer exposure time of around 20-30 seconds. Also, it works the opposite way, with a lighter scene which means that it may not need a long exposure time and instead have a shorter exposure time of around 10 seconds. I found this out by experimenting with different environments and different kinds of lighting. The second technical skill that I learned was that when using a pinhole camera, you need to get as close to the subject matter as possible in order to achieve the best final outcomes which have distortion and obscures the subject matter that I was capturing.
My prints can be seen below, starting with my experimental prints using the pinhole camera followed by my personal best print.

 





REFER TO SKETCHBOOK FOR ANNOTATION

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Stitching/Panorama

I created a stitched (photo merge) image by taking many photographs which overlap very slightly in order to produce a final panoramic image. I began by opening photoshop and going to the "File" menu and then "Automate" and then clicking on "Photomerge". By doing this, it opens up a tab which allows me to change what sort of photo merge I am going to produce and it also allows me to browse the files that I would like to use for the photo merge. I then browsed through my files to find the exact files that I wanted to use. Once I clicked open, it layered and merged the photos together into one final panoramic image. Once the final image was created I flattened the image by hovering over the "Layer" and then clicked on "Flatten Image" which brought all the layer into one. Below are my 2 final panoramic images that I created. The 2 final images above are underexposed so when I create a panoram...
Post a Comment
Read more

Hyper-Lapse

I created my hyper-lapse by placing my camera carefully on top of a tripod. I then positioned the tripod which had my camera on the edge of a pavement so that my main subject was positioned centrally in the frame. Next, I took a shot of the subject standing still on the curb of the pavement and every time I took a shot, I tracked backward whilst the subject moved forwards. I created the final video (hyper-lapse) by putting all the photos that I took into one folder. I then opened Photoshop. Once Photoshop was opened, I went to into the "File" menu and then clicked on "Open".   Once I had done that, I Navigated to the folder where all the photos were. I selected the first photo that I took.  Once the Photo has opened in photoshop, I went to the "Dialogue Box" and then clicked on "Image Sequence" By clicking "Open", it will import the photos into a time-lapse video fi...
Post a Comment
Read more

The Anatomy & How the Camera Works

The Anatomy Of The Camera: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/338473728219110890/ The viewfinder - This is what the photographer looks through to create the image and to see what they are shooting in front of the camera. Film speed dial - This allows the photographer to change how fast the film goes past the mirror which would allow for either a longer or shorter exposure time. Shutter release - A button on the camera or anything that can be used to trigger the shutter release. Film advance lever - This allows the photographer to pull the film from within the canister, out and onto the spool. Exposure counter - This shows how many exposures have been taken and how many are left on the roll of film. Mirror - Allows the photographer to looks through the lens to see what is being captured. Pentaprism - Allows the photographer to look through the lens through a viewfinder with everything the correct way up and around. Shutter speed ring - This is the amount ...
Post a Comment
Read more